2003 Ford Ranger Ball joint and Control Arm Repair Part 1: Lower Ball Joint

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http://www.apdty.com/Dorman_ControlArm_ranger-explorer.wws Click the above link to find the Ball Joint for your vehicle. In this video we’ll show you how to …

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mccrackenphillip says:

I am doing my right side lower joint on my 05 XLT 3.0 2wd mine does not
make that noise but the boot is bad the rubber is broken I took it in 4
years ago for the left side not the one is bad my Question is do they all
come out the same way on the rangers ?

Patrick Kelly says:

Thanks for the video. It made doing mine surprisingly easy and saved me a
few hundred bucks.

andy Thompson says:

For any DIYers attempting this and are going to borrow/rent tools from
AutoZone, etc, you will need to rent a (Ford) ball joint adapter in
addition to the press kit. Otherwise, you won’t have all the pieces to
press the new one in. Had I known this, I could have saved 1hr and an
extra trip to the parts store.

mashtones says:

For anyone attempting this lower ball joint repair be aware that some ball
joints (Moog) have a proper orientation that is marked on the top with a
hole or arrow or on the rubber boot. Learned that lesson the hard way. Good
helpful video.

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

Yes they are under the lower control arms, if I remember correctly they
were right under the round seat part for the coil spring.

powershop1903 says:

Hello. Is the process the same for Ford Rangers with Torsion bar front
suspension?? Thanks! Paul

SLCUTAHGUY says:

Great videos

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

That is a MOOG brand ball joint,, in my (and many other mechanic’s) opinion
they are one of the best, we have them on our website.

Corey H says:

Thanks a billion for this video. Awesome sauce.

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

@brd711 Removing the lower control arm requires compressing the coil spring
which can be dangerous and difficult, in the long run, just replacing the
ball-joint is usually easier.

Ron Adamson says:

That video was extremely helpful to me as a non mechanic. Many Thanks!

chaz stodolak says:

is the 2003 the same set up as the 2001? im doing my ball joints tomorrow
and was wondering.

jestertoo says:

Thanks for the video! Helped me do my mazda b2500 today.

Colby Swob says:

almost every vehicle from the early 90’s from then on as far as i know have
no grease ports they say because the factory seal is so good which i
believe but that rubber seal tends to tear easy when mudding on the lowers
anyhow.. ;P

Felix Martinez says:

great video!

brd711 says:

I found that the lower control arms (Doorman) cost the same as the ball
joints for the lower and I wouldn’t have to rent a press. Is there any
reason not to replace both control arms?

luvzcookies says:

thanks this helped so much… alignment is definately needed afterwards

jamespage8484 says:

Do not over the castle nut either or it will feel like the wheel needs to
be balanced going 40km/h. Just nice and snug.

NewShockerGuy says:

I am watching your video because I am replacing the entire upper control
arm on my little ranger. My boots are infact ripped and pretty much not
there anymore but when I push down on the truck it doesn’t squeak like how
yours did in the beginning? Any reason why? I am guessing the previous
owner never changed these so they probably have 100k miles on the truck! I
got the ones that you can grease for future instances. Video is extremely
helpful! Thank you! -Nigel

vrood178243 says:

Hi, I need to separate the steering knuckle from the ball joint to get a
bearing pressed in. How can I separate them without damaging the lower ball
joint? You said use a pickle fork, but that could damage the rubber boot on
the ball joint. Is there a safer way of doing this? Thanks.

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

@vrood178243 At 4:10 I explain how to use just a hammer to seperate the
ball-joint,, This method works 90% of the time without having to use a
pickle-fork. Good luck!

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

@xmyst3ryx That is one way of doing it, you have to be EXTREMELY careful
when removing the coil springs, they have hundreds of pounds of force that
can be suddenly released and cause injuries or damage if done improperly.
Although we always promote people doing their own auto repairs, replacing
coil springs may be one best left to the Pro’s. If you wish to do it
yourself, I would recommend renting a coil spring compressor. Thanks!

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

as far as I know, the 2002 was totally sealed (no grease fittings) from the
factory.

Ron Ramirez says:

Rental kit removed old ball. Kit didn’t have a shallow enough large diam
collar to install the new ball joint. When I stacked collars and caps there
was not enough room for the C-clamp to fit around them. Finally realized
TWO rental kits would give me the sizes needed. Used an impact wrench, but
it only pushes new ball joint in short way. Only way to seat ball joint is
with brute strength, using rental kit with a 7/8 box end wrench on the
clamp bolt and small sledge to rotate it. Saved $400?

bigdog8517 says:

Thanks to this video I was able to change the upper and lower ball joints
on my 99 B2500 myself. Drives perfect and I saved myself about $1000
dollars. Thanks APDTY

Cory B says:

Great video! If i were removing the front coil springs, would I have to
place a floor jack under the lower control arm and lower it once the ball
joints, strut, and sway bar links are disconnected?

r0ckstarr says:

@chino3642 Best route to go. It’s going to feel like a whole new truck.

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

@raulinvelasco The method we did it, no, I supported the lower control arm
(and coil spring tension) using a jack stand below the lower control arm.
If you plan on removing the whole control arm, then yes a coil spring
compressor would be required.

Auto Parts Direct To You says:

Unfortunately I don’t have any good tips on that one, other than letting it
soak in some penetrating oil and try working it back and forth with a
wrench and hammering at the same time. That bolt can become seized with
rust and be difficult to get out.

texfanusa says:

Another “thanks” to pass along, for this really gave me an excellent
understanding of what I’ll be facing when it becomes time to go through the
front end of my ’95 2wd. Not a fun job but certainly NOT as bad as the
radius arm bushings are going to be (something I need to replace
presently!)… Thanks for the nicely produced vid!

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