Ford F-150 broken fuel filler door fix it for free!

Share it with your friends Like

Thanks! Share it with your friends!


2012 Ford F-150 filler door fix without buying the part.


Steve Freeman says:

Excellent video. I was able to fix my 2012 F150 quickly with this. thanks!

Bob Deen says:

Or when the pin is broken, use 2 strong magnets

11secondeclipse says:

Awesome! Thanks bro

Mark Wilkinson says:

My 2012 has almost 42,000 and mine failed as well. Did this fix and it works like a champ.

dbvball says:

Does this work for the 2006 model? Anyone know?

Shawn Jackson says:

Thankyou! Mine popped today at gas station. I pulled it out and fixed it.

Josue Callahan says:

Thank you for your video !!

Michèle et Mario Tremblay says:

Perfect! I just fixed mine. TY

bhepp344 says:

Thank you! I've had to re do that damn spring 4 times. Now it's screwed it! Thanks! Only took few min too.

jockco curtis says:

Just finished fixing my own and I thank you for the video. Tried shoving my hand up and under to get to the tank door, I couldn't do it. what I did was at 3 o'clock where you said there was a clip that had to be compressed from underneath, I took a small flat head screwdriver and got it under the rubber, dubbed up a rag under the screwdriver and forced it enough for the clip to clear and pulled it all out that way. It worked but I felt like I was taking a chance and could have dented my truck. Thanks again

Stephen Stegall says:

Thanks for the video!

Arthur Knight says:

This fix does work but it takes a little patience and you do have to unlock the fuel door assembly . If you can get the two bottom tabs lose then it will come just take your time. also you should remove the painted door flap with a small screw driver by just lifting the tab on the back surface that faces inward when the door is closed. One thing that should be done is when you get the unit out and off the vehicle take your time and remove the spring and pull the shaft out by adding some WD40 so the shaft pin will come out completely . Now add just a touch more WD40 in the shaft hole and this will help the pin  to reinsert completely flush back into the shaft. This is the proper position it is supposed to be from the factory. Now turn the unit over and drill a small 1/16 hole in the pin and place a screw with a flat washer on it . You can also use a small bit of lock-tight red 271  on the screw itself this will insure a longer fix.  The WD40 has this thing working great and smooth. Good luck !!  Be Patience !

Tom Mclain says:

Thanks for the vid. I was able to fix my 2011 with 83k miles. The door pin on mine had twisted also, so I had to watch this a few times to get it oriented correctly. After a very scary noise, it was good to go.

Lee Lindsey says:

Thanks for the video. This was helpful. I have a 2013. I couldn't find a washer/screw combo that worked so I ended up drilling a small hole through the side and putting a small cotter pin in. It's only been 2 days so far but it seems to be working well. For the price of an 8mm socket and a cotter pin I saved myself what I was told was a complete new assembly that needed to go to a body shop for paint matching on the exterior of the door. Also, I didn't need to use a screw driver to pop it out, I could just push with my hand from the inside once I had pushed two of the tabs in.

Glenn Bennett says:

Thank you! I took your advise and instruction and fixed mine in 20 minutes with a little screw from my assortment. I'll use my $60 on something else :>)

Jason Woodbury says:

I think Ford should do a recall on these cause I have the same issue, and many others do too.

Kapok6 says:

Thanks for the video. My Gas cap door just came unhinged, (Great design, Ford). I'll be using this vid as a reference to fix.

Bobs Yuruncle says:

just watched this went out to my driveway and fixed mine in about 20 minutes. Thanks a lot.

Alvaro Jimenez says:

can you please do a video on how to remove that

Joel Lockridge says:

Just did a similar fix on my '11. Had to add a washer at the top, since the spring retainer circle was broken.

Eddy Q says:

I was able to get it off. all I had to do was gently pry on the right hand side. first remove the screws though.

Bob Remlap says:

I just wanted to add that this part is $74 plus tx at a Ford part company. I got mine working once didnt think about the scree in the bottom and it worked for a moth more. Had to remove it again but I messed up the plastic pins holding it in place so had to buy another one, my loss. I should have been more careful removing it.

Eddy Q says:

To remove it, remove the 3 screws. Then using a paint can opener (or a screwdriver), insert it into the rubber at the most rear point opposite of the hinge and pry. It will snap out. It may take a lot of pressure just be sure you are at the end opposite of the hinge. After you remove it you may need to hammer the pin back down. It should seat and you will see a small portion protrude out of the hole. Check the alignment of the top of the pin … compare it to his picture.

Eddy Q says:

I can't get mine off either. I wish he had shown how to get it off after removing the screws.

Chenko2424 says:

Just did this and saved 100. Thanks man.

Terry Rausch says:

great video! worked like a champ. thank you.

Jason Garoutte says:

I used a washer and cotter pin but trimming that hole and securing the bottom fixed the issue for good. Thanks!

brad wallace says:

Thanks man! Saved me 40 bucks! Exactly the issue! When you get the unit out of the truck it helped me to reach inside the body of the truck (behind the fuel door) and push on the interior  to my right. There is one of those little pressure tabs to release it. Once it's released you just have to move it up down slight to wiggle it out. When you put it back in, just do it slowly as if you are out of alignment the door will rub the body slightly when it closes.

Comments are disabled for this post.